Maintenance and Washing Instructions

Sleeping bags and mats

Sleeping bags should be stored at home loosely out of their stuff sack. This keeps the sleeping bag fluffy and helps it return quickly to its normal thickness when camping. Down sleeping bags, in particular, tend to come with separate, large storage sacks for storing the sleeping bag at home.

The more you use your sleeping bag, the better idea it is to use a sleeping bag liner. Liners reduce the need to wash the sleeping bag and provide additional warmth.

When traveling, you should try to air your sleeping bag every morning. This will help keep its insulation in the best possible nick.

Self-inflating sleeping mats should be stored at home with the valve open, for example, under the bed. Mats that have been stored flat fill up much quicker when traveling than mats that have been stored in a carry bag. Storing other types of mats does not require any special tricks.

Washing a sleeping bag

Sleeping bags get dirty over time, and this gradually reduces their insulating capacity. Follow the instructions below when washing your sleeping bag at home:

Only wash sleeping bags your washing machine is capable of washing: if the sleeping bag’s dry weight is more than 1/3 of the machine’s capacity, washing it in the machine is not recommended
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions if they differ from these instructions
Wash the sleeping bag with a suitable washing agent: ordinary laundry detergent is fine for fiber bags; for down sleeping bags use down detergent
Wash sleeping bags with the zipper closed
Do not use fabric softeners, bleach, or pre-wash detergents
Do not spin
Wash the sleeping bag in 30°C
Use the delicates wash programme
Run the washing machine’s rinse cycle two or three times at the end of the wash
Dry very thoroughly: very long, low-temperature tumble drying is a good option
You will probably have to run the tumble dryer programme several times before the sleeping bag is completely dry
If you do not have access to a tumble dryer, spread the sleeping bag out to air on a washing line/drying rack and ensure good ventilation - using a comfort fan is not excessive. Turn and handle the sleeping bag frequently when it's drying to avoid wet “clumps” in the insulation.

Washing technical clothing is easy!

Membrane and softshell clothing

First things first: membrane clothing is meant to be washed! High-quality membrane garments will stay in good condition if washed using appropriate washing agents and properly looked after.

Membrane garments are typically made up of three parts: outer fabric, membrane, and liner. The membrane keeps the weather out, while the outer fabric and liner protect the membrane and make the garment durable. The outer fabrics are impregnated - that is why you see water form beautiful droplets on a new garment. There are millions of tiny pores in the membrane; washing helps keep the pores open, thus allowing the fabric to breathe.

Most membrane garments are waterproof. However, some are only windproof. The washing instructions are suitable for both membrane types. Gore-Tex, DrymaxX, and HyVent, for example, are waterproof, whereas Windstopper is windproof.

Washing tips for membrane and softshell clothing

Follow the washing temperature instructions
Membrane and softshell clothing should ideally be washed with a detergent designed specifically for them, however only ever with liquid detergent
Wash the garments with the zippers closed and the right side out
Washing agent packages contain dosage instructions - follow them
Do not use a fabric softener - it is a good idea to remove any fabric softener left in the detergent drawer
Do not use bleach - it is a good idea to remove any bleach left in the detergent drawer
Do not spin membrane clothes
After a few washes, treat the garments with membrane or softshell impregnation agent
Some membrane garments can high-quality in a tumble dryer or a drying cabinet. The right amount of warmth also activates the impregnation agent in the best possible way. Check each garment separately whether it can be dried in a tumble dryer

Cotton blends

Synthetic fibers are added to cotton to increase its durability and strength among other things. Cotton blend trousers breathe and even out heat (G-1000, Überkühl...). These fabrics may include a waterproof membrane too, so please check the washing instructions carefully.

Washing: Close zippers, buckles, and adhesive fastenings before placing the garment in the washing machine. Always check the correct washing temperature for each garment.

Impregnation: Cotton absorbs impregnation agents. We recommend, for example, Greenland Wax as impregnation agent for this type of items. Impregnate the fabric while it is slightly damp and finish it off using an iron, a blow dryer, or, the waste heat of your sauna. This helps the cotton fibers absorb the wax very well, and the result will be evener.

Synthetic fibre blends

Synthetic fiber blends (Climatic, OmniDry, Insect Repellent...) are durable, quick drying and light – these are their best characteristics. Trousers made of this type of material often include UV protection, and some are also an insect repellent.

Washing: Close zippers, buckles, and adhesive fastenings before placing the garment in the washing machine. Always check the correct washing temperature for each garment.

Impregnation: Synthetic fiber fabrics do not absorb impregnation agents, so impregnating them is challenging, perhaps even pointless. We recommend heat treatment by ironing. Check the item label for the correct temperature.

Base layers and mid layers

Synthetic fiber base layers and mid layers benefit from frequent washing. Follow the washing instructions of each garment. Avoid using bleach and fabric softeners.

Wool base layers require much less washing than synthetic fiber layers. These days nearly all wool base layers are made of merino wool, which is so fine-grained that it does not cause skin itching even to users who experience problems with ordinary wool clothing. The lanolin in wool clothing has many useful characteristics: usually just airing the garment before next use is enough and thanks to lanolin, wool clothes do an excellent job even when damp. Woollen base layer wearers will have a more pleasant break during their trip: where synthetic fiber base layers feel cold as soon as the body slows down its heat production, wool will keep your temperature more constant. All our wool base layers are machine washable and made of wool from mulesing-free farms. There are a few essential things to consider when washing wool garments:

Read the washing instructions and follow them
Use your washing machine’s wool or delicates wash programme
Always use a wool detergent
Wool garments should be allowed to dry flat - this stops the garment stretching
Wool detergent is ideal for preserving the wool’s characteristics!

Down jackets

You can wash your down jacket yourself unless the product label specifically says otherwise. If unsure, letting a laundry handle it is a better option.

Read and follow the garment’s washing instructions
Use your washing machine’s down or delicates wash programme
Only use down detergent
Dry very thoroughly: several low heat cycles in the tumble dryer is a good option. If you dry the jacket in room temperature, a comfort fan or two will speed up the process significantly. Squeeze the jacket frequently to push moisture from the down towards the surface of the fabric so the moisture can evaporate.

Footwear

Extend the life of your footwear by maintaining and looking after them correctly! Simply applying impregnation to the outer layers is not enough.

Avoid getting abrasions and blisters by wearing clean shoes and seamless socks in clean feet. The best combination is thin liner socks with high-quality hiking socks over them.

Always store your shoes in a cool and dry place, away from direct sunshine. Do not store shoes on top of underfloor heating! Excess heat can prematurely erode the polyurethane used in mid-soles.

Clean your shoes after each use:

Remove stones, snow, and slush from the top, bottom and inside of the shoe using a soft brush
Clean also the inside of the shoe
Let the insole dry separately
Air the shoes in a dry and airy location

Washing the footwear if necessary:

Wash footwear in lukewarm water using a mild detergent and a soft brush
Let dry at room temperature in plenty of air (NOTE! Not in sunlight, on a radiator, or on top of underfloor heating). You can speed up the drying process with an ordinary comfort fan if you so wish
You can fill the shoes with warm water and wash up liquid. Let them soak, brush gently and rinse thoroughly. Dry at room temperature, preferably in front of a comfort fan

Leather footwear

The leather is a natural product which is always made of the hide of an animal. Leather suffers from contact with dirt, salt, light, and dryness. Leather needs natural oils or wax to stay supple. Small scratches and abrasions are simply memories from your journeys and adventures. The leather is most typically used in footwear which from time to time comes into contact with peat or sea water. Especially if this happens, you should rinse the shoes with fresh water immediately after the trip. Peat and seawater are the worst for destroying the stitching that keeps your shoes in one piece.

Use a damp, lint-free cloth to wipe your leather shoes from dirt and mud. If necessary, use a soft brush.

Leather needs nutrients. Impregnate leather with wax or spray for that purpose.

Nubuck leather footwear

Nubuck is a natural product; however, it is more porous than full-grain leather. Nubuck leather is top-grain leather which has been buffed. Nubuck leather requires more zealous spray impregnation than unbuffed full-grain leather. Wax darkens nubuck leather.

Rubber boots

Rubber conditioner cares for your rubber boots. It restores rubber’s original shine and preserves its elasticity. Wash your boots from time to time with lukewarm, soapy water and a sponge. Avoid using coarse brushes and solvent-based detergents. Do not use solvents. Dry the boots preferably at room temperature, never in a drying cabinet or boiler room.

Tents

Tent fabric

Mould is the tent’s worst enemy. The best way to protect your tent from the mold is to let it dry thoroughly after each trip. Hang both the inner and outer tent as loosely as possible in room temperature. Check to see if moisture forms puddles in certain parts: these parts should regularly be dried. A tent will typically dry in a couple of days, but a drying time of a week is not excessive either - you don’t want your holiday home going moldy, do you!

Poles

Poles will normally stay clean even on the roughest trips. If storm winds or an accident (e.g., falling over the tent) cause the poles to bend or crack, assess the situation: a bent pole will normally work just fine. A cracked pole, however, must be replaced. Ask our customer service team to help you replace your broken pole.

Pegs

Pegs should be cleaned from sand and mud after each trip - a dish brush is a good tool for this. While doing that, check for any bent pegs. If the soil is hard, you can even hit the pegs with a stone, but stepping on one will almost invariably bend it into a curve. A metal peg can usually be bent back into its original shape - you should do this before embarking on your next trip.